If you live on the Texas Gulf Coast, your air conditioner isn't just fighting the heat — it's fighting moisture every single day. And that constant battle between cold, conditioned air and the warm, humid air outside creates one of the most common and most overlooked problems in coastal homes: mold growing inside your ductwork.
This isn't a minor nuisance. Duct mold circulates spores through every room, every time the system runs. For homeowners in Friendswood and surrounding areas, the combination of subtropical humidity, aging duct systems, and a history of flooding events makes this a problem that demands attention.
Why the Gulf Coast Is a Mold Incubator
Mold needs three things to thrive: moisture, warmth, and organic material. The Gulf Coast delivers all three in abundance.
Average relative humidity in the Friendswood area hovers between 75% and 90% for much of the year. When your air conditioner runs, it cools the air inside the ducts to around 55°F. Meanwhile, the air surrounding those ducts — in your attic, crawlspace, or between walls — can be 95°F or hotter with near-saturation humidity. That temperature differential causes condensation to form on the exterior surfaces of ductwork, and sometimes on the interior surfaces as well.
In neighborhoods like Heritage Park, many homes were built in the 1980s and 1990s with flex duct systems that use fiberglass insulation as their inner liner. When that insulation absorbs moisture — from condensation, minor leaks, or flood events — it becomes a permanent mold colony that's nearly impossible to clean without replacing the ductwork entirely.
How Mold Gets Established in Your Ducts
Mold colonization in ductwork typically happens through one or more of these pathways:
Condensation accumulation. When duct insulation is inadequate or has degraded over time, condensation forms consistently on duct surfaces. Even small amounts of daily moisture accumulation — amounts you'd never notice — create ideal conditions over weeks and months.
Moisture intrusion from flooding. This is the big one for our area. During Hurricane Harvey in 2017, thousands of Friendswood homes took on water. Many homeowners replaced flooring, drywall, and furniture but left the ductwork in place. If water entered any portion of your duct system, the interior insulation almost certainly retained moisture long enough for mold colonies to establish. Homes in the Friendswood Lakes subdivision were particularly impacted, with many experiencing 2-4 feet of flooding that submerged ground-level duct runs.
Poor duct sealing. Gaps at joints, connections, and register boots allow humid attic or crawlspace air to enter the duct system. That humid air meets cold conditioned air, and condensation forms inside the ducts — right where mold can feed on dust and debris.
Oversized AC systems. An oversized air conditioner cools air quickly but doesn't run long enough to adequately dehumidify. The result is higher indoor humidity levels that feed mold throughout the home, including inside the ductwork.
Pro Tip: If your AC cools your home in less than 10 minutes per cycle but the air still feels clammy, your system may be oversized. Short cycling increases humidity and accelerates mold growth in ducts. Have a technician evaluate your system sizing.
Warning Signs of Duct Mold
Mold in ductwork often goes undetected for months or years because it's hidden from view. But there are telltale signs if you know what to look for:
- Musty smell when the AC starts. This is the most common early indicator. If you notice a stale, earthy odor in the first few minutes after your system kicks on, mold spores are likely being blown through the ducts.
- Visible growth at registers or grilles. Check the supply registers in each room. Dark spots or fuzzy growth around the edges means mold has colonized at least the register boot and likely extends further into the duct run.
- Increased allergy symptoms indoors. Persistent sneezing, congestion, or itchy eyes that improve when you leave the house — and return when you come back — strongly suggest airborne mold exposure.
- Condensation on register surfaces. Water droplets forming on your supply registers indicate excessive moisture in the duct system.
- Black dust around vents. Dark particulate matter collecting around vent openings may be mold fragments being distributed by airflow.
The Remediation Process
If you suspect mold in your ductwork, the first step is professional air quality testing to confirm the presence and type of mold. This isn't a DIY diagnosis — surface swabs and air sampling provide the data needed to determine the scope of contamination and the appropriate response.
Remediation options depend on the type of ductwork and severity of contamination:
For metal ductwork: Professional cleaning with antimicrobial treatment can be effective if the mold is surface-level. The interior surfaces of metal ducts are non-porous, so mold can often be removed without replacing the ducts.
For flex duct with fiberglass liner: If mold has penetrated the fiberglass insulation, replacement is usually the only effective option. Cleaning fiberglass-lined ducts is like trying to clean a sponge — the mold roots into the material and returns within weeks.
For any ductwork: The source of moisture must be identified and eliminated before or during remediation, or the mold will return. This may involve improving duct insulation, sealing joints, addressing drainage issues, or correcting system sizing.
When to Call a Pro: Do not attempt to clean visible mold from ductwork yourself. Disturbing mold colonies without proper containment releases massive quantities of spores into your living space. Professional remediation includes containment barriers and negative air pressure to prevent cross-contamination.
Preventing Mold From Returning
Once your ductwork is clean — or if you want to prevent mold from establishing in the first place — these measures make the biggest difference:
- Maintain proper duct insulation. All ductwork in unconditioned spaces (attics, crawlspaces) should have adequate insulation to prevent condensation. In our climate, R-8 is the minimum; R-13 is better.
- Seal all duct joints and connections. Use mastic sealant, not duct tape. Every gap is an entry point for humid air.
- Keep humidity below 55% indoors. A properly sized AC system with a good thermostat should manage this. If it can't, a whole-home dehumidifier fills the gap.
- Change filters regularly. Clean filters maintain proper airflow, which prevents moisture buildup caused by restricted air movement.
- Schedule annual duct inspections. A technician can catch early signs of moisture accumulation before mold takes hold.
Post-Harvey Assessment: It's Not Too Late
If your Friendswood home flooded during Harvey or any subsequent storm and you haven't had the ductwork professionally assessed, now is the time. Mold that established years ago doesn't go dormant — it continues to grow and release spores as long as any moisture remains. Even homes that appeared to dry out quickly may have retained moisture in duct insulation, air handler cabinets, or between duct layers.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my ducts have mold?
The most reliable method is professional air quality testing that compares indoor spore counts to outdoor baseline levels. If indoor counts are significantly elevated — particularly for species like Aspergillus, Penicillium, or Stachybotrys — duct contamination is likely. Visual inspection of register boots and accessible duct sections can also reveal growth.
Can I just spray bleach in my ducts?
No. Bleach is ineffective against mold on porous surfaces and can damage duct materials. It also doesn't address the moisture source, so mold returns quickly. Professional remediation uses EPA-registered antimicrobial products designed for HVAC applications.
How much does duct mold remediation cost?
Costs vary based on the extent of contamination and type of ductwork. Professional cleaning of metal ducts typically runs $500-$1,500. Full flex duct replacement for an average home ranges from $2,500-$5,000. Air quality testing to assess the situation usually costs $300-$500.
Does homeowner's insurance cover mold remediation?
It depends on the cause. Mold from a sudden, covered event (like a burst pipe) may be covered. Mold from long-term humidity or deferred maintenance typically is not. Review your policy or contact your agent for specifics.
Don't let hidden mold compromise your family's air quality. If you notice musty odors, unexplained allergies, or visible growth near your vents, schedule an air quality assessment to get answers.
