In brief
Secure your outdoor unit to its pad with hurricane-rated brackets, get a pre-season inspection, and have a plan to shut the system down before landfall. Preparation before the storm is dramatically cheaper than repair after it.
August took us across Galveston, Tiki Island, Texas City, Pearland, League City, and Friendswood for 99 jobs, and about two thirds of them were diagnostics. Here is what that mix says about how buildings and equipment behave on 100 degree days, and what it is worth checking on your own system.
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We spent July 2026 on service calls across Galveston, League City, Friendswood, and Tiki Island, and about two out of three were diagnostics. Here is what that mix says about how coastal systems behave at peak load, and what to check on your own equipment before August.
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A slice of the commercial HVAC service we ran between early April and mid-May 2026 — 8 cases across Galveston, Friendswood, Tiki Island, and Pearland that surface the patterns we keep seeing in commercial systems along the Gulf Coast.
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Hurricane season on the Gulf Coast isn't a matter of if — it's a matter of when. And while most homeowners think about boarding windows and stocking supplies, few think about their HVAC system until after the storm has already done its damage.
Your HVAC system is one of the most expensive things you own outside of the house itself. A little preparation can mean the difference between turning the AC back on after a storm and writing a five-figure check for a replacement.
We've already published a post-hurricane HVAC inspection checklist for what to do after a storm hits. This guide covers the other half: what to do before hurricane season to protect your system.
Have a technician perform a full system inspection before storm season starts. They'll identify existing issues that could worsen under storm stress — loose electrical connections, corroded components, low refrigerant, and worn capacitors.
A system in good working condition before a storm is far more likely to survive one. A system with an existing refrigerant leak or corroded electrical connections may not survive the power surges and exposure that come with a hurricane.
The condenser unit is the most vulnerable component during a storm. Make sure it's:
Dead branches, palm fronds, and overhanging limbs are the most common source of storm damage to outdoor HVAC units. A 20-pound branch falling from 30 feet will crush condenser fins, bend fan blades, and damage refrigerant lines.
Trim anything within striking distance before the season starts, when tree service companies aren't booked solid and prices are reasonable. Pay particular attention to:
Take photos of your equipment from multiple angles, including:
Save your most recent inspection report and any repair receipts. If you need to file an insurance claim after a storm, this documentation makes the process dramatically faster and reduces disputes over pre-existing conditions.
Pro Tip: Email the photos and documents to yourself so you have a cloud backup. If your home floods and you lose paper records and devices, you'll still have access to everything via email from any device.
Power surges during and after storms are a leading cause of HVAC electronics failure. Circuit boards, capacitors, and compressor windings are all vulnerable.
A whole-home surge protector installed at the electrical panel costs $300–$500 and protects every appliance and system in the house — not just the HVAC. It's one of the most cost-effective storm preparedness investments you can make.
This is the single most important thing you can do. Turning off the breaker disconnects the system from power surges that occur during and after the storm — when power flickers on and off repeatedly or comes back unevenly across the grid.
Do NOT rely on the thermostat to protect the system. The thermostat controls the system's operation, but it doesn't disconnect it from the electrical supply. The breaker is the only reliable disconnect.
Locate the HVAC breaker(s) in your electrical panel now — before the storm — so you're not searching in the dark. Most homes have separate breakers for the outdoor unit and the air handler. Turn off both.
Use a heavy-duty tarp (not a thin plastic sheet) secured with ratchet straps or heavy-duty bungee cords. The goal is to deflect wind-driven debris, not to create a waterproof seal.
Important: Leave the bottom of the tarp open or loosely draped. You don't want to trap moisture inside the unit — that creates its own corrosion and mold problems. The cover is a debris shield, not a weather enclosure.
Do a last sweep for anything that could blow into the unit:
Once the storm passes, follow our detailed post-hurricane HVAC checklist before restarting your system. The key points:
If your system was damaged in a previous storm, or if you're concerned about vulnerability, these upgrades significantly improve survivability:
Hurricane-rated mounting hardware — Anchors the outdoor unit against wind uplift forces. Standard mounting relies on gravity; hurricane-rated hardware uses through-bolts into the concrete pad.
Elevated platforms — For flood-prone properties, raising the outdoor unit 24–36 inches keeps electrical components and the compressor above typical storm surge levels. Essential for Tiki Island and Galveston West End properties.
Coastal-grade equipment — If your current unit is aging, replacing it with equipment rated for salt air and coastal conditions gives you better storm resilience built in. Sealed electrical compartments, corrosion-resistant cabinets, and coated coils all handle storm exposure better than standard equipment.
Automatic transfer switch and generator — For homeowners who need continuous climate control (medical equipment, pets left during evacuation, etc.), a properly sized standby generator with automatic transfer keeps the HVAC running through extended outages.
Yes — cool the house down as much as possible before turning off the breaker. A well-insulated home will hold its temperature for several hours. Set the thermostat to 70–72°F in the hours before shutdown to give yourself a thermal buffer.
If there's no visible damage, flooding, or debris in or around the unit, you can typically restart once stable power is restored. If you see any damage or the unit was exposed to water, have a technician inspect first. Running a damaged system for even a few minutes can turn a $500 repair into a $5,000 replacement.
Most policies cover wind and debris damage to HVAC equipment. Flood damage typically requires separate flood insurance. Document everything — pre-storm condition photos, post-storm damage photos, and any repair or replacement estimates. Our team can provide detailed damage assessments for insurance claims.
Portable units can cool a single room during an extended system outage, but they're not a substitute for central AC in Gulf Coast heat. If you keep a portable unit for emergencies, make sure you also have a way to exhaust the hot air (window kit) and enough generator capacity to run it.
